Added: Magon Stukes - Date: 21.10.2021 11:00 - Views: 34454 - Clicks: 5002
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. How to replace an old above ground oil storage tank AST by installing a new one to meet most-stringent environmental protection guidelines.
In 20 detailed steps article series illustrates how a d and trained team remove an old oil tank and install a new tank that includes an oil leak containment system. Proper oil storage tank installation for a long-life and trouble-free oil storage tank use and thus for reliable oil heat service at a building requires that the tank be installed following good industry practices described in this article supplemented by proper homeowner and oil heat service technician inspection and maintenance.
Watch out : Although we illustrate the process with some detail here, specialized knowledge and experience are needed. Oil tank replacement is not a task that a homeowner can nor should attempt. Doing so may result in loss of heat, unsafe heating system, a very costly oil spill, and violation of environmental laws. Beyond "following the rules" of good oil tank installation, here we illustrate, step by step, the procedure including preparing the oil oil storage tank for easy access and removal, installing the new oil tank in an oil leak containment tub, installing the necessary oil tank fill and vent piping, oil supply and return piping to the oil burner, getting the oil burner working properly after a new oil tank has been installed, and final site cleanup after the oil tank installation job is complete.
Photo: clutter around the existing oil tank to be removed should be removed before the oil tank crew show up at the property. As the new oil tank to be stored in the garage at this property was to be placed in a containment tank, we removed surrounding tables and items stored in the area.
Above: we cut away a portion of the overhead shelving support to be sure that there would be working space to install the new, larger oil tank 2" diameter vent pipe. Typically it takes 6 hours or more to remove an old above ground oil storage tank and install a new one. During that time your building's oil fired heating equipment will remain shut down. In very cold weather, both for comfort and to reduce the risk of frozen water pipes you may want to run the heating system up to a higher than normal indoor temperature for several hours before starting the oil tank replacement job.
You may also want to borrow and turn on a few electric heaters to keep the building occupants more comfortable. As this oil tank replacement was completed in a garage open to freezing outdoor temperatures, the oil tank installers also used a kerosene-fueled torpedo construction heater both to warm the work area and critically, to heat up their oil transfer pump that otherwise is recalcitrant when it's cold.
The existing oil storage tank was nearly-full of No. Except for see at the tank gauge during fill the old oil tank was not leaking when it was replaced. But the combination of site requirements for oil tank containment systems due to the home's location , the accumulation of sludge in the tank, and the fact that the oil line supplying the oil fired heating boiler was fed from the bottom of the oil tank where the sludge and water reside were reasons to replace the oil tank.
Later in this article you'll see the remarkable amount of debris and sludge we found in this oil tank. Above: a kerosene-fired torpedo construction heater used to warm the transfer pump. In the background you can see the snorkel and oil line hooked up to remove oil from the oil tank. The air-compressor used to operate the transfer pump was kept outside the garage as it's a gasoline-operated model - photo above.
Rather than pay to dispose of nearly an entire tank of recently-delivered heating oil, the installers used a compressed-air operated transfer pump to remove most but not all of the oil, pumping it into temporary storage using gallon steel drums - shown below. Watch out : The pump's pick-up tube or snorkel shown below , inserted into the existing oil storage tank, is kept high enough from the tank bottom to avoid picking up water and sludge that were likely to be present in this oil storage tank that we estimated was more than 30 years old.
While the existing oil tank is being emptied the new oil storage tank, in this case a Gallon steel oil tank produced by Granby, is brought inside and prepared for installation. New oil tank prep includes at least the following:.
This oil tank is being installed with 4-inch long 2" NPT pipe and bottom flanges to form the tank support feet. The bottom flanges are particularly important to avoid risk that the tank feet cut into or damage the oil tank tub into which this tank will be placed. While the transfer pump is finishing removing the usable oil from the existing oil storage tank the technicians prepare the old tank for removal. Cut the existing fill and vent pipes to the old oil tank - notice that the operator is running a sawzall with a metal cutting blade kept some distance back from the tank fill and vent ports so that any metal debris from sawing will not fall into and contaminate heating oil that may still be in process of transfer out of the tank.
Close the tank bottom drain valve, tap on it to be sure it's shut, and with considerable caution, loosen and then at the oil tank, remove the existing bottom-feed oil tank line to the oil burner. Typically the installers will remove the old copper oil line between tank and burner as the old one is likely to be sludge-clogged or damaged; however at this installation the existing oil line to the burner was just a few years old so we decided to retain it as part of the new two-line oil piping to the burner that we'll install later in this process.
The tank installer checks the status of the heating oil being transferred, again, taking care not to pump water or sludge into the temporary oil storage drums as that oil is going to be moved into the new oil tank when it's ready.
With the oil transfer pump stopped and the snorkel removed from the oil tank the technicians pull the oil tank away from the wall and tip it up to carry it out of the building. With the existing tank nearly empty except for its reservoir of sludge, the tank can be tipped on end and carried outside.
Though in our OPINION this requirement is inconsistently applied and not always fully rational, in general if an oil storage tank or heating equipment itself is located in a garage where it might be struck by a vehicle, local or state code officials may require that the oil tank or equipment be protected by one or more bollards - concrete-filled steel posts set into concrete.
Here the local code official, whose opinion and advice are the final legal authority, wanted a baluster to protect the new oil tank from being struck by a vehicle that might impact the garage wall from outside. In our opinion this was an event so unlikely as to be near-impossible, but we follow the local code official's guidance. The installers cut an appropriate hole through the concrete floor slab in the garage to permit a later installation of the bollard, as once the oil tank and containment tub are in place it would be difficult to make that opening.
Ironically just a few days after this oil tank installation we learned of a nearby catastrophe at another home nearby: a neighbor, working on their car, left it with emergency brake off and in neutral; the car rolled down a long sloping driveway, crossed a residential street, continued to make a modest turn, rolled now at speed down the driveway of a nearby home, and smashed into the home's garage and door, knocking down and breaking through a concrete block foundation wall!
Humbled we have officially dropped griping about the bollard requirement to protect oil storage tanks. The installers slide the footed and bottom-plugged and leveled oil tank into the oil tank containment tub, using heavy cardboard upon which to lay the tank so as not to gouge the heck out of it when sliding it across the concrete floor into the tub. The installers measure distances from the building walls to square-up the tank in position, and slide the tank left or right to align appropriate tank top tappings with the existing oil tank fill and vent openings.
The old guy's hand mine in the lower portion of the photo is holding the gauge float. Notice that the float and gauge rods are hinged. That silver tube hanging down from the red cast-iron Scully gauge assembly is the actual oil tank whistle or alarm that will go quiet when, as oil reaches the bottom of the tube, air stops exiting the tank through the whistle body.
That will cause the gauge rod arms to bend to the most-closed position - similar to the photo of the gauge we showed just above. With the oil tank gauge rods folded to the "closed" position you avoid bending, damaging, or fouling the gauge as it is inserted into and screwed down onto the oil tank top tapping. The risk of a fouled oil tank gauge arm is even greater after the oil tank top oil piping assembly has been installed down into the tank, but it can happen any time.
My photo below shows how to pull the oil tank gauge indicator to the up-most or "full" position, though for convenience of photography I'm closing this barn door after the horse has escaped, as the gauge is now already installed into the oil tank tapping. For pipe thread sealant the installers are using a product specifically rated for use on fuel oil piping connections.
Watch out : Using the wrong type of pipe dope can result in leaks that will be a nasty pain in the neck to fix later. With the gauge hand-threaded NOT cross-threaded into the oil tank vent line tapping the Scully gauge and alarm assembly is tightened into place. Below: the 42" long supply dip tube and 6" long oil return line tube that will insert into the oil tank at the oil line tapping opening are being prepared for later installation in step The dip tube places the oil pick-up about 2" off of the bottom of the oil tank, avoiding drawing sludge or water into the oil feed to the oil burner.
Watch out : if there is water or sludge in your oil tank, even with a dip tube that is clear of the bottom, an oil delivery stirs up sludge and crud sufficient to send it to the oil burner. A delay in running the oil burner of an hour or more would be smart but nobody does that - so you will be relying on that annual oil burner service to include changing the oil filter cartridge and the filter screen inside the fuel unit. With the new replacement oil tank set in place and the fuel gauge mounted, the installers reverse the pumping of heating oil from the temporary gallon drums back into the new tank.
Plumbing the remaining oil tank connections continues while the oil tank is being re-filled with heating oil. You may notice that this heating oil is dyed red, a feature of home heating oil intended to prevent abuse of fuel tax laws. While your diesel Dodge may run on both diesel purchased at a Getty station and on No.
The dye allows officials to spot fuel tax cheaters by staining engine components red. Above the workers are installing the tank vent - 2" diameter as currently required - at left, to pass through the higher opening in the building wall, while at right the tank tapping is being fitted with the oil pick-up and return line connection.
A sophistication that makes for quality workmanship here is the use of a pipe cutting and threading tool, mounted in the company's service truck. The pipe tool permits the installers to fit the exact fill and vent pipe lengths needed for the job, including routing the new fill and vent pipes out through the building wall at the same locations used for the prior pipe installation.
The original oil storage tank at this location was a one-pipe system. It delivered fuel to the oil burner through a tapping at the bottom of the oil tank. But a bottom-fed oil line is not feasible when local regulations require that the oil tank be installed in a spill-containment tub as shown here. Cutting a hole in the tub bottom to run oil piping would of course render the containment system useless. So a 2-line oil piping system is required when a containment tub is used.
The other two taps are on the fitting's under-side and carry the dip tube and return tube that are now out of view see step 10 above , having now been inserted into the oil tank. Later we will provide more-complete protection for these oil lines using floor trim installed with care not to drive a nail or screw through the oil tubing.
Here the installers have completed piping the oil supply and return lines to the fuel unit on the oil burner - as labeled in our photo. Above: that black tube is connected to the oil burners air bleeder valve. The technician has installed temporary jumper wires at the oil burner control so that he can cause the burner motor to run in order to bleed air from the system. Watch out : air left in an oil burner piping system or air leaks into the piping will cause improper oil burner shut-down, leaving incompletely-burned oil in the combustion chamber - a mistake that can lead to a dangerous oil burner puffback.
The installers take considerable are to assure that the oil burner is working properly before leaving the job, including checking oil burner operation, noise, smoke, smoothness, cleanliness, and making multiple checks of the oil piping and all fittings to be sure they're not leaking. At this installation the original oil burner piping had been incorrect: the oil safety valve OSV had been installed on the outlet rather than the inlet side of the oil filter. The installer also added a check valve between the oil filter and the fuel unit on the oil burner.
Watch out : Note that there are no valves of any kind installed on the oil return line. Any device that could stop the oil return line of a 2-pipe oil burner set-up risks blown oil pump seals that could lead to a serious building fire. Below is a photo of the same oil burner piping before the oil tank replacement, showing the OSV at the wrong location. Watch out : in our photo of a fusible link oil line shutoff valve shown just above, the valve is not installed correctly.
Because the original oil burner piping had been bottom-fed from the oil tank there was added risk that the disturbance of the system or even a recent fuel delivery may have stirred sludge that then entered and fouled the oil burner. As part of restoring the burner to service the technician replaced the oil burner filter cartridge and the fuel unit screen in the oil burner pump itself.
These are NOT normal oil tank replacement tasks but were performed in part because on restoration of service the burner was operating more-poorly than before. The owner provided the necessary fuel filter cartridge, fuel unit screen and gasket. The technicians made sure the burner was running smoothly. Outside the installers complete the oil tank piping by installing the riser and cap on the oil vent line at right , and by installing that white oil spill containment unit at the oil filler pipe.
The containment unit is a Morrison Brothers Co. This device is not found on most residential oil fill pipes but was required at this location because of the total volume of oil stored at the site. The note needed to be changed.Oil furnace tank hook up
email: [email protected] - phone:(472) 213-6174 x 3827
Guidelines for Installing Above Ground Oil Tanks